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If you are planning a trip to Glenrowan, naturally you will ask the question, what will I do when I get there and what will I see? As you drive into town (assuming you came from Melbourne) off the Hume highway, you are soon confronted with the legend that is Ned Kelly. In fact from now on you could almost be forgiven for thinking that Ned was the only member of the gang. First thing you see is a giant Ned Kelly, made of fibreglass and provided for tourists by the people at Kate's Cottage in Glenrowan. There is plenty of parking available and all that there is to see and do is within walking distance of anywhere you park in Glenrowan. There are basically two choices here, to see the sites where history took place, or to visit the souvenir shops. For some, the shops are commercialism gone mad, for others they afford the opportunity to take home a piece of Ned. Personally I see nothing wrong with the idea of souvenir shops, however if that is all you took the long drive to Glenrowan for, you may as well buy what you want online! For me the joy of this place is that you can stand at the locations of each part of the story and with a little imagination (ok, a lot of imagination) transport yourself back to the life and times of the Kelly gang.**
Cross the overpass and turn left back towards the railway line. You are now
standing on the site of the stationmaster's house where many prisoners were
housed during the early part of the siege. Head
back to the road and you have several choices, my suggestion is to head straight
for Out the front you will see a couple of 'bollard' style figures, these you see all around this area. They represent the police, trackers and civilians. As you can stand
out front of the site of the Glenrowan Inn site, take some time to soak in what
it is you are actually looking at. Look up and
beyond the site of the Inn and you see a mountain, it is Mt Glenrowan, Morgan's
Lookout, named after the bushranger Mad Dan Morgan (not Mad Dog as portrayed by
Dennis Hopper). Next
stop might be the place where Ned Kelly was captured. There is a funny looking
yellow sign designating this spot and a strange looking 'Ned'. The actual
stump of the original tree where he fell is still underground here. Some time
back someone came along and chain-sawed the remaining section visible above
ground. Did he know what it was and wanted it for that reason? Or did he not
know what it was and wanted firewood? I guess we will never know. Until recently
you could actually touch this stump if you knew where to look. Unfortunately it
is now hidden for future retrieval. Once you have the excitement of that out of your system, turn around and head across the road toward the railway station. Look ahead before you start walking and you will see the entire battleground! The trees may have gone, however the original drains where the police took refuge are there. (well they were, council has filled them in so you do not fall in) This is the place where O'Connor was hiding as the other police did the dangerous work. Mind you, you will not find a sign to tell you this fact. Close by here
you will find the stone depicting the site of the 'first volley', where the The walk now is only a short distance forward. The railway line is ahead and standing at the railway station gives us a feel of what it must have been like as spectators stood here watching the unfolding battle. The railway station is a replica, it was built in recent times and replaced a building that had stood since 1911 been eaten away by white ants or termites. (not sure which, I just remember it crumbled when I touched it)
In many of the photos held in the State Library (available online) you can see the people standing on the railway platform as the shooting took place! Now
walk up the ramp and follow the footpath around to the left. You will see a
little playground here (and dunnies). If you stand and face the railway station
(looking down) you will see another rock with a plaque with the words 'sky
rockets'. It was from here that the Chinese rockets were launched by friends of the gang after the first volley of shots were fired. Cross
the road and you will see the Glenrowan Hotel and the Kelly Country Motel. Next
door to the Hotel is yet another marker. This time you see a plaque on a
rock that says 'McDonnell's Hotel'. This was the site of the 'sympathisers
hotel'. The Tavern blew down in 1978, today it is a vacant block of land with a large tin green fence out the front. The local shire purchased this site and is organising an excavation of it in the near future. It will be of great interest to see what is found here from the time of the siege. (at the moment it is a bit of a dumping ground unfortunately) For some
visitors, the idea of looking at nothing but a rock and a plaque may not appeal. I am thankful that there is not a modern building on the site of the siege. However plans are afoot for a 'Glenrowan Interpretive Centre', a project involving a possible building near the site of the battle. What shape this will take is unknown at this time. I would like to think that it will never change. (one proposal is for a tower of great height) You may also
wonder if you can visit the site where the rails were ripped up, this is not Once you have had your fill of looking at the sites, you may wish to visit the tourist shops or grab a bite to eat, on the other hand, if you have the urge you could always visit the animated theatre. **This task has been made somewhat harder by the recent destruction of the railway Reserve part of the Siege Site.
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